A Vest in 3 Systems - Devere 1866 First Fitting, New Forepart

In the prior post I made up a forepart and back part per instructions for make to measure in the 1866 version of Devere. I took this draft, and transferred it to a piece of Staedtler sketch paper roll. To the sketch, I added 1/4" seam allowances to the side seam and shoulder, to account for my muslin. This was then transferred to the muslin fabric, that was cut out, seamed and fitted.

Below are pictures of that initial fit, which was rather lacking to say the least particularly at the shoulders. of the muslin over a period shirt. There is also a lot of diagonal wrinkling from the shoulders down to the bottom center forepart. (I was also unable to pin the vest straight) The last image shows a lot of wrinkling under the arm, when it is raise due to the interference of the far too long shoulder seam with the ball of shoulder; this is due to the fact that the drafts made with Devere aren't graded like modern patterns and are entirely based on the chest size. Because I am "portly" my shoulders are much smaller then my chest when compared to Devere's Proportionate man.

Also I apologize for the poor quality images, seem cell phone camera have a hard time focusing on white against, a white background.

At the suggestion of Mr. Ruley on "The Sewing Academy" forum [1], I made another draft of the forepart in which the bust was calculated against to measured curve. I took the measured curve and added 2 1/2 graduated inches to it, to come up with the calculated bust based on the proportionate man. And straight from Devere:

FOREPART.
The first point we have to notice is, that the full length is 19 3/4; that is, equal to the length of back 17 1/4, plus the distance to the top of back from the corner of the square, (2 1/2).

So below are some images of the new forepart with the old back. The fit is much improved, although as can be seen in the raised arm photograph; the issues of interference with the ball of shoulder are still present. I suspect much relief will need to be taken to reduce the shoulder-seam and enlarge the armscye.

[1] http://thesewingacademy.org/index.php?topic=10444