A Vest in 3 Systems - Devere 1866 Measurements and Math

So for any person who has enjoyed the wonder that is Mr. Devere's system, you have encountered the wonder that is graduated inches and been left mystified as to how they map to a proper measured inch. So first I considered and digested the following passage:

The GRADUATED MEASURES, are a series of measures, which are successively graduated larger and smaller than the common inch measure, and are used to draft patterns for larger or smaller sizes than the 18 3/4 breast [the breast size of his ideal proportionate man]. The “CENTRE POINT SYSTEM” can be worked correctly by DEVERE'S GRADUATED MEASURES only. All other measures are drafted on a wrong base, and would make the patterns too large.

So while I personally don't have a copy of DEVERE'S GRADUATED MEASURES handy, if I read this and other passages correctly, in addition to standing on the shoulders of giants such as Wolfie, Mr. Jim Ruley, and Mr. James Williams; it is a simple matter of ratios that “graduate” the size of the inch successively as the breast measure increases or decreases over the 18 3/4 ideal proportionate breast. I should note that all breast and waist measures are taken in half in Devere's work, so the ideal proportional 18 3/4 breast is in fact 37 1/2 inches. So the size of a graduated inch for my breast size of 25 inches should work as follows:

My Breast Measure

---------------------------   = One “graduated inch” in Measured Inches

Proportionate Breast

25”

---------- = 1 1/3 Inch

18 3/4”

So now I am left with two means of attack to draft the pattern.

1. Draft via “THE PROPORTIONATE PATTERN”

2. “DRAFT TO MEASURE”

Given that I am aware of the fact I have a longer torso then the proportionate man, and a larger stomach, I feel it may be prudent to revert to the second method of drafting to measure. That said the proportionate pattern does figure heavily in draft to measure, as measurements are taken for all points.

The principles upon which the Draft to Measure is based, are extremely simple. In forming the pattern, we rule the dimensions of all the parts of the patterns which are given by the measures, according to the measures themselves. All the other points of the patterns, which are not given by the measures, and which do not vary according to the structure of the man, are ruled by graduated measures, without any trouble whatever, copying the number of the proportionate pattern.

In my next post I shall start to actually draft my vest according to Devere's 1866 method!