A Vest in 3 Systems - Devere 1866 Initial Draft

So below is the text regarding drafting the waistcoat to measure. I have added my sizes in square-braces [ ]. In places were there are graduated measures used, I have used the scale of 1 1/3” measured inches to the graduated inches that I resolved in my prior post for my breast size multiplied by the graduated inch measure given, to determine the common inch measure to be used. i.e.:

2 1/2 graduated inches coverts to 3 1/3 common inches

2 1/2 * 1 1/3 = 3 1/3”

1 1/2 graduated inches converts to 2 common inches

1 1/2 * 1 1/3 = 2”

DRAFT TO MEASUREMENT
(Plate 14.)
The front of a Waistcoat being cut in the material, and the back only in lining, we draft the two pieces separately, instead of placing them side by side in two squares as for coats.
THE FOREPART,-FIGS. 1 & 2.
Fig. 1. First draw a long straight line, and mark on it the length of Bust to measure [25”]. Starting from the bottom; measure off for the slope of waist, the 2 1/2 graduated inches [3 1/3”] required for the back neck, this will give the bottom of side seam, and from this point measure upwards the length of SIDE to measure. Draw lines square across at all points, and mark on the bottom line half the length of WAIST to measure, plus 1 1/2 graduated inches [25].
Fig. 2. Mark all points indicated on this diagram, with a graduated measure corresponding to the Breast measure of the client, and complete the pattern by drawing the curves as before explained.
THE BACK, FIGS. 3 & 4.
Fig. 3. Draw a straight line, and mark on it the length of the CURVE to measure [20 1/4”]. Mark upwards from the bottom of the length of SIDE to measure. Draw lines square across, and mark on the bottom line, 1 1/2 graduated inches more then half the WAIST [25]: this 1 1/2 is an extra allowance given in the middle of back at the bottom only, and will afterwards be taken in by the strap and buckle, see fig. 8.
Fig. 4. Mark the other points of the back by the graduated measures, and complete it by drawing the curves, as shown on Plate 13.

So now I followed the above to get the rough shape, but I still need to draw the curvers.

HOW TO DRW THE CURVES.
The curves of a Waistcoat are very simple, and very easy to learn.
([i]Plate[/i] 13.)
In the FOREPART. The neck seam is hollowed 1 graduated inch [1 1/3'], at 2 1/4 [3"] from the shoulder point. The shoulder seam is rounded 1/4 inch [1/3"], and the side seam hollowed 1/4 inch [1/3"]. The scye is hollowed 3/8 [1/2"] at the top, and 7/8 [1 1/6"] at the bottom, from straight lines drawn from the front of scye, to the shoulder and bottom of scye.
In the BACK. The [i]back neck[/i] is curved up 3/8 [1/2"]; the shoulder and side seams are each hollowed in 1/4 inch [1/3”]: the upper part of syce is drawn square with the dotted construction line, and the lower part is hollowed in 1 1/2 [2”], from a line drawn from the top to the bottom of back scye. These curves are always to be drawn in the same manner, for all sizes and structures; of course using the graduated measures, for all sizes larger or smaller the 18 3/4 breast.

So given the fact I am rather portly I have thought to take that in consideration, by drawing the side seam straight for the back. The additional amount of allowance in the front and back is not needed as the measured draft should compensate for this, along with my long torso.:

Stout Waists, on the contrary, require extra allowances given at these places, according to the size, half being given to the front and half to the back. It should be observes that for Stout waists, the extra allowance in the front, is sloped off to nothing at the height of the breast line, and also that the side seam of the back, is for Stout men, drawn in a straight line.

So finally! Here are the drafts, not to transfer them to drafting paper and muslin. I do confess I am rather suspect of the short side, but we shall see shortly the manner in which it fits.